There and Home Again

The journey is over, but the memories will last forever! Picture 1 is of the Dome of the Rock, taken at the Temple Mount yesterday morning. You may have heard about the riots going on a short distance from here. Picture 2 is the Denver contigent of the group, safely back at DIA. Suzi had joined us, and departed from, Newark. For the brave of heart, at the end of this posting, Fr. Doug and his Speedos.

The trip is over and everyone has headed back home again. The picture from DIA is only a couple of hours old, but already the "normal" has crept back in -- the dogs need attention, and the cat does, but won't admit it. The young ones left their mark and we will be cleaning up. Laundry is in the laundry room, and the suitcases have been emptied of treasures and trash. Even as this happens, we think about those back in Israel and West Bank who can never hope to make a journey like this; and the people we've met who say, "Oh, yeah! I have family in California, and Michigan, and...you name it."

Please add comments, questions, send thoughts to dougest1@gmail.com, and I will be making some additional posts. For now, I think a short, controlled nap is in order. In my own bed. And even though it is Lent: Alleluia!

Doug

P.S. The Speedo, as promised: Ooops! It went to the head of the line. Sorry!

One Leg to Go

Dear All--

Short note from Newark on the 18th, 6:00 am local time, and 4:00 in Denver. All is still very well. Made the 12-hour flight from Tel Aviv with crying children and coughing passengers around. Will be taking Airborne stuff when we get home. Verona liked being frisked going through Customs -- said, "Oh, that feels good after the flight we just had." MAny people getting American coffee, and looking for a MacDonalds with bacon or sausage biscuits -- or both! Another posting yet to come. Marcia Rath still wants a picture of my Speedo. See you all soon.

Doug

Wednesday Night at the Airport

All is well. We are all at Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv -- still healthy and friends with each other. Boarding in about a half-hour. All is well. See you beginning tomorrow.

Doug

Nearly Here; Nearly There

Our last full day in the Holy Land -- picture #1 is at the Shrine of the Book, the Israeli Museum that features a wonderful demonstration of the Dead Sea Scrolls and related arifacts from Qumran. Picture #2 is at the Garden Tomb, also known as Gordon't Tomb from its excavater in the late 1800's. This is the "Place of the Skull," or Golgotha, near the Garden Tomb. Do you see it?

Today we say a famous Menorah sculpture across the road from the Knesset, depicting great scenes and figures from Israel's past. Upsetting to the Orthodox Jews, who don't believe in this kind of art, but very expressive. Off to the Israeli Museum for the Dead Sea Scroll exhibit. None of the actual scrolls are on display, but exacting copies of them are -- very impressive. Astounding to be inches away from the Isaiah scroll, for instance, and see little mistakes and corrections made to the text, carefully noted, editted, and "fixed." And to know that through it all, the sense of the text had not changed in 1000 years of copying one scroll after another.

Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Museum, was next. It is >this< close to indescribable. The hall of the museum is a single corridor cut through a mountain in triangle form. We walk the floor; the walls come together in a glass peak above ground. There are eight (I believe) halls off the main corridor which depict the Holocaust from the rise of Hitler and the Third Reich. Our guide said that eight hours wouldn't be enough to do it justice. Four would be a decent minimum. We started with two. After the two hours, I had only gotten half-way through, and even then I passed by so much more that I should have attended to. Bill came to get me since everyone else was waiting. A day wouldn't be enough. So many displays, pictures, videos, stories, documents, etc. The people who claim the Holocaust never happened should be given a short tour here. The culmination is the Hall of Names -- records of 4 million (4,000,000) people whose life and death in the Holocaust is documented by file and computer there -- two million more whose deaths are known, but whose particulars may not ever be known. More are added each day, but as time passes, so to the memories and the connections. Many tears shed here.

When to the Children's Memorial -- 1,500,000 of the six million Jews who died were children. Moving memorial of gentle lights, mirrors, and a voice softly saying each child's name and country of origin. All I could wonder is, "How long will it take to say 1,500,000 names?"

Off to the Garden Tomb, or Gordon's Tomb. Access was not restricted when I was here in 1974 -- a little less lax this time around. We had a tour of the garden and view of the Skull, the Golgotha of the crucifixion. Had Eucharist, led by Jenni and Suzi, in a small chapel. Sang and prayed and shared; then had a few moments at the Tomb itself.

There may not be a blog tomorrow, since we will be in transit to Tel Aviv, supper, and off to the airport for the trip back home. We are all ready to come back to Denver and other points home. But this has been an amazing time. Good relationships all around, and deeper ones with those that already existed. I will finish the blog tomorrow, perhaps, or at some convenient time later on -- stay tuned!

We have appreciated your attention and prayers, and you have all been in ours. Thanks for your love. See you in a few hours, most of which will be spent on that delightful airplane ride!

Shalom!

Doug

Monday in the Old City, March 15

On Monday we went to the Wailing Wall. Picture #1 is the separate men's and women's checkpoint getting in. Very tight security. See below. Picture #2 is the "Wall Tunnel" under the Muslim Quarter, next to the Wall.

Started the day at Mount Zion, the City of David. Apparently when the current wall was put up in the 1500's, the architects neglected to include the City of David within the wall. Gordy's students will remember that this was the lower (southern) part of the Jerusalem mount, and the site of King David's home. Currently covered in other people's homes, but undoubtedly in the envious eye of biblical archaeologists when that time comes it is available for digging. Went to the Church of the Dormition where Mother Mary is supposedly buried. Also the Upper Room, built a few centuries after the time of Jesus. As Eliezer said, "I can't tell you it is THE Upper Room, but I can tell you for certain that it is the upper room of the downstairs room." I have trouble with these places, but as Suzi says it answers the sense of longing that people have for the place and the event.

Then through the Zion Gate, with some obvious bullet holes from the Six-Day War in 1967. Through the Jewish Quarter to the Davidson Archaeological Museum on the south side of the Temple Mount. Good video presentations, and wonderful digs outside. Saw the famous "Robinson Arch," while Gordy has pictures of me pointing to my feet (the less-than-famous "Dunn's Arches," and pointing to the side of my head at the even-less-famous "Dunn's Temple." Saw a young girl's Bat Mitzvah, and were asked to join in the singing and dancing. It happened on a platform just south of the Wailing Wall, but separated, since females are not welcome there.


Off to the Wailing Wall. We didn't try to get close since there were so many people there, and the others had been there a few nights ago. Went through the Wall Tunnel west of the Wall that archaeologists had dug below the Muslim Quarter. It followed the Wall the rest of the way to Herod's Palace on the NW corner of the Temple Mount. Saw a few places where folks are working below -- like 50 feet below, with more to dig. The current buzz is, "Wait a couple of years, and we will have some fascinating things to reveal." It was an excellent tour, and among the best of the trip so far.

The tunnel brought us up near the Via Dolorosa, and we walked the way of the cross to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Again, I had trouble with this, particularly when Eliezer mentioned that Station Four (or Five?) had been moved for commercial reasons. The Stations at St. Luke's this Good Friday, though, will have particularly deep meaning this year. The place is not as important as the reality of the event.

Had an in-depth tour of the Church, though didn't get to reverence "the" holy sepulchre -- looked like a three-hour line and we were just about walked out by then. Suzi had logged 21,000 steps the day before! Back to the hotel, when Ethan picked us up outside the Jaffa Gate. Dinner and a bus ride around "Jerusalem at Night." Saw some interesting neighborhoods and sites away from the Old City -- the Supreme Court, the Knesset, the Prime Minister's offices. Wrapped it up with a final look over the Old City from the Mount of Olives. Didn't blog last night because we were just too tired.

Today, off to the Yad Vashem (Museum of the Holocaust) and Israeli Museum. Temple Mount if it is open to tourists again.

Hope you are enjoying this. See you in just a few days!

Doug

A Somewhat Quiet Sunday Here

I'm getting the hang of this -- finally. #1 is a picture of the Damascus Gate, one of the seven gates to the Old City. We were there this morning. #2 is a shot of one of the shops in the area. Very ecumenical. If you look closely, Jewish prayer shawls are offered on the left. Arab headdresses in the middle. Christian clergy stoles on the right. Cool.

This is a somewhat quiet day for us. Our guide, Eliezer, had the day off, so we were on our own, and everyone survived. Joyce, Ann, Rene, Verona, and I went to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at 5:00 am -- already services going on, with a Mass of some sort in the little tomb over "the" tomb of Jesus' burial. We had to look around elsewhere, and came back between masses. Already a dozen pilgrims in line, and by the time we got to the doorway, the Franciscans were ready for their Mass, so we were told, "Go now. Schnell, schnell." Tight religious schedule, I guess, but short on the welcoming and hospitality. Note: when the 5:00 Muslim call to prayer began, the Christian bells started to ring. Everybody wants to whizz on this particular tree.

Back to breakfast and gather the others to walk back to St. George's Anglican Church for 8:00 Eucharist. Very English priest there, but no prayers for the Queen. But lingering prayers over Jesus being born in Bethlehem, "...and here in Jerusalem he died for our sins..." Takes on a new meaning. Felt very much at home, including the Diocesan prayer cycle for "Church of the Redeemer, Amman (Jordan)." Did a little shopping on the way back to the hotel, and stopped at the Samara Restaurant where a couple there already said, "I just want a hot dog and a beer." We had good sandwiches, really cold water, and really hot french fries. I think most folks had naps.

Bill, Joyce, Suzi, and Jenni walked the ramparts of the City Wall. Kathy and Gordy had an hour-long visit with the clergy and archivist at Christ Church (Anglican), where Kathy's great-grandmother had been married. Got to look at the actual archives, "and more..." Gordy says. You'll have to ask. It has become our custom to gather at the hotel bar about a half-hour before dinner to make comments on the day and to quench our bitter thirst. Okay, we have a Gold Star, the local beer. Not served really cold. Never cold. Ever. When we get home...

Yes, we are already talking about home, and "what'll we do when..." Sounds like most are keen on a good night's sleep in their own beds. Suzi said she put on 21,000 steps on the pedometer today. Verona had a three-hour nap this afternoon. This quieter day was a great blessing.

Now I call it a "somewhat quiet day here" because you will probably hear about Vice President Biden making comments here in Israel about the Israelis needing to stop with the new housing projects where they are not wanted. You will probably not hear comments from Israel asking if there are now 51 stars on the American flag, and if Israel has become the new American State. Do we need to ask permission of America to build our own homes on our own land? Naturally, of course, the Palestinians are upset over those comments, and tensions have risen here. Nothing threatening, but in a show of force and intimidation, the Israeli police have shut down the Temple Mount to tourists, Israelis, and Muslims under 50 (or perhaps 15, I'm not sure). As a result, our itinerary is changed for tomorrow, and we still may not get to the Temple Mount. I'm not sure if Bethlehem has been closed, as well, so perhaps we only just barely made it there and back.

Still a "somewhat quiet day," and we are still glad to be here. No sense that we are in any kind of danger. However, if we die, make sure these comments get published. Just kidding -- we aren't about to die. My feet may die, I think. I need a massage. See you all in a few days.

Doug

Saturday, Qumran & Masada

Happy Saturday! Picture 1 should be the famous picture of the Cave 4 at Qumran, where some of the Dead Sea Scrolls were found in 1947+. Picture 2 should be a shot from the top of Masada.

I'm back at my own computer today, and this is soooo much better. I like sending you all the pictures, but you are only getting 2 of about 60 taken today. We were up for breakfast and tried to beat the other tourists to Qumran and Masada. Seems that Saturday/Shabbat is a better day to tour those places. Things around here in Jerusalem shut down.

We got to Qumran first, and were a little rushed. Interesting, it is just off the highway going down the west side of the Dead Sea. Such a common thing. We had a short presentation by video (presented by languages and groups waiting in line). Then off to the site. Yes, Charli and Marty -- we found the wadis! Lots of wadis! Cave 4 pictured above is just across one of the bigger valleys, but a well-thrown stone from the community site would hit it. Not high up above, but actually a little below the site.

Took a short ride through the En-Gedi site where David escaped from Saul -- not surprising that David would hide here. No one in his/her right mind would want to be here any length of time. Jan saw an ibex.

Off to Masada, looking much like Battleship Mesa on the way to Grand Junction. Masada rises straight out of the valley floor, isolated and very, very impressive. So easily defended; no wonder it was chosen for Herod's get-away. Gordy and Bill went up the Snake Trail, about 45 minutes to the top. The rest of us took the cable car, 2 minutes. Thanks be to God.

Much of the top remains unexcavated; it was the dream of the original archaeologist that future generations have their chance to examine history this way, too. Many of the major sites have been explored, and some reconstructed. Bill, Kathy, Gordy and I went down the north slope to see the two lower levels of Herod's palace. After another hour on top, Eliezer took the women to the Dead Sea for a dip; the guys stayed to explore more on top.

Gordy found us a couple of ostracon -- ah, ostracon, you say! Pottery shards with painting on one side. Not a lot of that stuff lying around, but the trained eye sees all. Which means not Bill's or mine. Went down on the cable car and visited the museum. The Jewish defenders/rebels selected ten men to slaughter the rest; then the ten drew lots to see who would kill the others and then commit suicide. The original ten shards, with names, are in the museum. They thought it better to die as free people than face slavery under the Romans. Most impressive!

Our driver picked us up at 3:00 and took us back to the Dead Sea Spa and the women. They had a great time, but will need to tell you in their own words. Ask especially about the mud treatments.

We were all dragging by the time we got back to the hotel. We have plans to go to the early service at Church of the Holy Sepulchre tomorrow, breakfast back here, and then go to 8:00 mass at St. George's Anglican Church to pray for the Queen. See you tomorrow -- thanks for following along and keeping us in your prayers! Zelda, the cross will be blessed tomorrow at the Church.

Doug